Style & Beauty Editor
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In a world where terminology like couture or bespoke are so subjectively used, its understandable how the value of the words themselves may depreciate over time. However valid you may find that to be is for you to determine. While the value of the terms used to describe the art may waiver, what true bespoke yields is nothing short of captivating. Bespoke is more than stitching something together, bespoke is the art of creating a specified garment imagined and suited for a specific individual. Bespoke bridal designer Yemi Osunkoya has a talent and passion for bridalwear that borderlines creative genius. Yemi is the designer behind the Atelier brand, Kosibah label currently located in Manhattan New York. With his ardent attention to detail and mastery of drapery, it seems almost inapt to call Yemi Osunkoya a bridal designer and more fitting to refer to him as an artist.
Yemi was preparing for a full day of meetings and fittings when he sat down with Kontrol. His demeanor held true to his previous home across the Atlantic in the land of good manners. Yemi was informative, warm, and tactful–all of the qualities you’d expect from a bespoke designer with Yemi’s background. His migration from London, England to New York was more than leaving one fashion capitol for another, it was important for his journey as a couturier and bridal designer.
“My process is extremely bespoke, I don’t really follow trends,” Yemi told me in regards to his thoughts on bridal fashion. “But at the moment, I do see a bit more structure coming in. There’s a lot of tulle and a lot of nudity (sheer).” Because bespoke is purposed for a specific wearer, it difficult for Yemi to specify any fashion faux pas. For him, the task is translation. Making the vision that a bride has in her mind a reality.
“There could be a specific idea that a bride had in her mind and it doesn’t actually suit her.
You really want to create something that makes her look her best and creating a look that best suits her personality. I also try to specify any cultural elements that are important to the wearer and a lot of things like that.”
As the old adage goes, what works for one won’t necessarily work for the other. Yemi’s design in also influenced by venue and time of the event.
“During a consultation I ask what sort of venue will the wedding be at? Is the location a hotel or a castle? If you’re getting married in a castle, I’d go with a more dramatic look with a longer train.”
While Yemi is a bridalwear designer, many of his gowns would do well on the red carpet of any Hollywood event. With over 25 years of savvy, bespoke bridalwear is Yemi’s area of expertise and he intends on eventually expanding his brand.
“I would absolutely love to do red carpet, but my problem is because I do bespoke its difficult to me to have access to a variety of dresses. I can’t say a lot currently. But I would like to develop a RTW (ready to wear), shoes and eveningwear as well.”